Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Ho Chi Minh City Weekend






Chinese New Year is almost upon us!

On February 18 (Sophia's birthday) the Chinese New Year (also known as Lunar New Year, Spring Festival, Tet (in Vietnam)) begins. The color red is pervasive, people exchange gifts of oranges (in twos) for good fortune and hand out red envelopes (ang pow) containing cash (even numbers - odd is symbolic of death). I will keep you posted on the New Year goings on in my next update.

We just got back weekend trip to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) where we were pleasantly surprised by the city and the people. The city is in the southern part of Vietnam and is about an hour and a half from Singapore by plane. We wanted to go somewhere new and close and Ho Chi Minh fit the bill. We arrived Friday afternoon and got the full impact of the city as soon as we stepped out of the airport terminal. There was pandemonium, much like in India, with cars, buses, scooters and people crowded right up the the terminal door. We found a taxi and headed towards the hotel. The streets were loaded with cars and motor scooters. Scooters, scooters everywhere! Some had a Mom and Dad and 2 kids, others were loaded with packages, fruit or big bundles of balloons. Most of the people were wearing some kind of face mask to filter out the pollution so it looked like an army of banditos.

The Saigon Sheraton www.sheraton.com/saigonhotel was lovely and right in the center of town. Our room had a nice view of one of the main streets of the city. It was hot there but didn't feel as hot as Singapore. We took a quick walk around and headed out for a drink and then dinner. The Saigon, Saigon bar atop Caravelle hotel was a good stop for a drink solely for the nice view of the city. From the people in the bar you would have thought you were at the Holiday Inn in Des Moines. A bunch of middle aged white folks in festive travel clothes. We soon realized that most of these guys (now with their wives) were there to revisit the place they had been sent to by the US government in the the 60s or 70s. I am sure this trip was a bit more pleasurable then their earlier visit. The rest of the weekend we saw many many westerners there for the same reason.

We ate at a wonderful French restaurant called La Carmague. The French influence in Vietnam is still very strongly seen in the architecture and the food. We had the first really great baguettes we have had since moving to Asia and the fois gras wasn't too bad either.

The most exciting thing in Saigon is crossing the street. There are so many mopeds, scooters, cycles and bikes going like crazy in all directions and even on the sidewalks. Crossing the street is like the video game Frogger - two steps out, one back , 3 forward, 2 back. After watching the locals for an hour we figured out the best method - just walk slowly across at a constant speed regardless of oncoming traffic. This way all the drivers can see and avoid you by going dangerously close to your toes or heals. If you speed up and slow down they can't anticipate where you will be as they zip past. Its not for the feint of heart but it works. Sophia usually just closed her eyes as we crossed.

Saturday we had breakfast at a Pho place recommended by the Kraft Country Director for Vietnam. www.pho24.com.vn/index.php Nothing like a big hot bowl of soup with noodles, known and unknown meets and chilli sauce at 9 AM! We also had our first sample of the legendary coffee of Vietnam. The coffee comes in a cup with a small drip strainer on top. the water slowly drips into the cup (part of the ritual of taking a long time to brew and then enjoy the coffee). The "white" version also has a good dollop of condensed milk in it. It is super strong and super sweet. They bring out extra hot water so you can dilute it a bit. The most expensive blend is called "chon". The chon is a weasel-like animal that lives in Central Vietnam and it only eats the coffee fruit. When it relieves itself the locals gather up it's excrement and process the beans. This is no joke. By the way there are no Starbucks in Ho Chi Minh -------- yet!

After filling up we walked around the city. The people were extremely friendly and while there are clearly many poor people there the outright poverty that you see in places like Manila and Jakarta is not evident. We took in the Art Museum (great building but a little light on art) and then walked to the War Remnants Museum. This is the museum that chronicles the war from the North Vietnamese perspective. The grounds are full of captured US tanks, planes and artillery and the exhibits highlight the atrocities carried out by the Americans. It was very interesting to see. I thought he Jane Fonda statue was a bit over the top though.

Back in steamy Singapore where I think winter has ended. We had a nice run of almost comfortable temperatures and low (50%) humidity since early January but things are picking back up. Its high 80s/ low 90s and 60+ humidity now. But it does cool off to about 79 at night.

Off to Bangkok this week and then I will be making my first trip to Milwaukee since last year. I will be stopping there on the way to a meeting in Miami.

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