Friday, January 4, 2008

Delhi - Part II

Humayun's Tomb - where many Mughal's are laid to rest, an early model for the Taj Mahal.
One of the other buildings on site showing glimpses of how beautifully adorned it once was.
Allah!
Some of the brilliant tile work has endured the looting and dirty air of Delhi.
The gate to the tomb complex.
One of the many stone screens.
View from the tomb back to the gate.
The entry to the tomb- lovely red sandstone embellished with marble inlay.
A few ewes passing the time. The guy in the background is wearing a sweater made of their cousins....

A fruit vendor in the goat parking zone.
The fellahs inside the butcher shop eye a passing goat who may perhaps be part of their next delivery. The narrow alleys of Nizamudin. Park your shoes and buy your offerings for the tomb of the famous Muslim saint.
We like this shoe park because they cave our claim checks. Only 10 Rupees!
The Mosque and some lucky souls with tombs close by.


Day two we started off by going to Humayun's tomb. Humayun was the second Mughal Emperor back in the 15oos. His tomb has been said to be the inspiration for several later monuments including the Taj Mahal. According to my wise brother Noah, Humayun died by falling down a flight of stairs. My inside India sources agree and add the further explanation that he was headed down some steep stairs to his mosque for prayers when the come to prayer music began, He quickly turned towards Mecca on the stairs, slipped, fell and eventually died. Anyway, the place was really beautiful. The tomb, some of the other historic buildings on the grounds were all worth a look. There are so many Mughal bigwigs buried there that they call is a dormitory. Even old Humayun's barber has a special place to rest. When Gus the barber's time comes I wish him the same tribute as the Emperor's Hair Developer.

Next stop was the Nizamuddin complex. One of the most revered Muslin saints, Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia is entombed there. He died in 1325 but is still a huge draw. Approaching the tomb you have so walk down a narrow winding lane lined with shops selling flowers and other memorial things to buy and lay on the tomb. there are also about 50 places where you are asked to check in you shoes as they need to be removed before entering the holy parts of the complex. I must admit I was a bit nervous and unsettled as we entered the narrow street. I wasn't really sure what we were supposed to do - the religious and cultural customs and practices there are so foreign and unknown that it was extremely unsettling. We checked our shoes and I bought a couple of flower garlands. We got in line for the tomb with the many followers, devotees and disciples and a few odd tourists. The guy at the door motioned me to enter and also allowed Sophia in. the tomb houses what looked like a coffin, covered with cloth and flooded with flowers, spices and other apparently significant items used to pay homage, Sophia was allowed to look into the small area though lovely marble screens along with other women devotees. Men were kneeling, praying and touching the coffin and cloth. I respectfully laid my flowers on the coffin and made my way around it. On the way out I signed the guest book and made a small donation. So I've got that going for me.... which is nice....
We looked a round a little longer watched people in the mosque area found our shoe guy (not too many shiny white sneakers on the pile) got the shoes and headed to Ashook and then to the hotel.

After a shower and a rest we headed to the other really good restaurant in our hotel - Bukhara. http://www.theworlds50best.com/2007_list.html Our friend Roopank joined us for dinner. He took over the menu and we feasted on lamb, chicken, Dal and some amazingly good Nan. After dinner we sampled paan. A bunch of stuff folded into a a leaf. Roopank said there are about 10 degrees of paan from mild to knock out. We sampled the mildest and it was still a mouth explosion to remember as the flavours of cardamon, anise, pepper, leafy taste, mint and more overload the taste buds with flavour and texture. http://www.food-india.com/ingredients/i026_i050/i028.htm

1 comment:

Un Elefante said...

that's a very nice picture of sophia.