Thursday, February 19, 2009

Thaipusam - Son of Shiva

A few Sundays ago I got up early and headed to Little India for one of the most colorful and festive, yet also most disturbing Hindu festivals - Thaipusam. For a good explanation of the festival please look at the following link - http://www.sttemple.com/STT/english/thaipusam.asp
Like most Hindu holidays and festivals, there is no one explanation, merely a number of different legends.

The gist of the festival is that devotees of the deity take on a burden, called Kadavi, for which they are said to gain benefits a million fold greater then the pain he (or she) inflicts upon himself.

Things start off at the temple early in the morning. There are thousands of devotees and they are all sequenced. There is plenty of music - drums, horns and other instruments.


Each devotee has a "crew" of family and friends who get them ready for the procession. http://www.straitstimes.com/Breaking%2BNews/Singapore/Story/STIStory_333366.html


The "pain" involves piecing of the devotees bodies and carrying or pulling elaborate tableau's.

http://news.asiaone.com/News/AsiaOne%2BNews/Singapore/Story/A1Story20090213-121728.html


Here one guy have spike put into his back to allow him to pull a large float. Behind him the gentleman sits quietly with pierced cheeks as his headdress is readied.



The kadavis are put together on site. Each is unique but most feature lots of peacock feathers. There were boxes and boxes of the colorful feathers at the temple.
http://www.nationmaster.com/encyclopedia/Thaipusam



It it said that the devotees go into a trance and therefore can't feel the pain of the piercings or their burden. I didn't see any blood.

Here on the the kavadis is being assembled. These guys are mostly Tamils. Most Tamils come from Southern India or Sri Lanka. There are well over 100,000 Tamils in Singapore. It's the 4th largest Tamil community behind India (61 million), Sri Lanka (3 million) and Malaysia (1 million).


This man calmly sits with a skewer poked through his cheeks.


Each of these wires is attached to the guy with a pin that looks like a fish hook.



The top of one of the kadavis - lots of feathers, a garland and lord Ganesha and Shiva.



Another one gets strapped on. The devotees are getting ready to walk about 4 miles and let me tell you it's always pretty hot and humid here and that day was no exception.



More elaborate kadavis.



Each devotee goes through a prayer ceremony before donning his kadavi.




Special ash is placed on his forehead and chest.


Another man waits as decorations are applied.




It's a very frenetic scene at the temple as hundreds of devotees get ready, leave and others come in. The festivities take place over a 24 hour period and there are not too many lulls. 8000 participated in Singapore and the streets were lined with 10s or thousands of spectators.





After leaving the temple I found a place on the street to watch the procession. Each devotee has his group of family and friends. Some playing instruments, some carrying supplies. Te guys don't look to be suffering but they must be.




I'm not sure if he is in a trance but he is focused.



Here are two guys with limes attached to their backs by piercings.



Each kadavi is unique.





This guy was wearing sandals made from wood with nails, face up, under his feet. Try to do that for 5 miles.



There were a few women amongst the devotees. This one was carrying a kadavi. the minimal burden allowed is a pot of milk. Even carrying a pot of milk on one's head for five miles in the Singapore heat would be no picnic.




There were several stations giving out water and food. Here was some kind of lentil mixture. Maybe a Tamil version of trail mix...


Also huge cauldrons of what tasted to me like a kind of savory Cream of Wheat. I had a cup and it wasn't half bad.




A few lemon and lime carriers and a few milk pots.



One of my faves - the monkey god.





This guy was pulling a very heavy load.




Finally, before I left, a pair of women passed carrying milk on their heads. I've now seen this festival several times and it never ceases to amaze and intrigue me. I don't think I will do more than watch anytime soon.....


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